Cape Cod National Seashore - 50th Anniversary (Part 1)

During 2011, Cape Cod National Seashore celebrates its 50th anniversary. Several events are planned to commemorate this remarkable national park area. We are going to give you a rundown on areas to visit on "The Cape" and things to see and do from places we have visited there. 

PART 1
Today we will describe the park, accommodations, towns and food.

PARK AREA
This is a park that can not be seen in a day! In fact, after two visits, I have found that there is more areas to discover. Forty miles of pristine sandy beaches, marshes, ponds and forest support diverse species.

The area has attractions such as lighthouses, historic buildings, landscapes and ports  that offer a view of Cape Cod’s past and continuing ways of life. Beaches for relaxing and hardy swimmers, along with walking, hiking and biking trails attract visitors.The area covers from the town of Eastham, MA approximately mid cape northward to Provincetown, MA at the north end of the Cape. The area makes a great day trip for those who are local, but for those who would like to stay longer there are several B&B's, hotels and motels nearby.

Eagle Wing Motel

ACCOMMODATIONS
Arriving via Rt. 6 (the main highway through the Cape) there are many places to stay. Most are local hotels and motels or B&B's. A Days Inn is also available. For our trip we did extensive research and chose Eagle Wing Guest Motel in Eastham. This is a motel / B&B on Rt. 6 hosted by Mary and Gerry Orris. Both are very knowledgable about what to see and do in the area. Gerry is also a local radio host and knows extensive history of the area. The motel's rooms are spacious and nicely appointed. Rooms have refrigerators and some have a back porch where you can relax after a day's activities. Prices are nominal and a continental breakfast of fresh muffins, juices, tea and coffee is served daily. Take your breakfast to your room or eat at the tables outside of the motel's office and plan your day! Other similar accommodations are available in the area. 


TOWNS
There are four main towns on the Cape that offer an array of scenic and cultural attractions. History predates the colonial era, and the coastal heritage is evident in the communities that comprise the Cape.

EASTHAM, MA
The National Park Service (NPS) operates the Salt Pond Visitor's Center for the National Seashore in Eastham, MA. Open daily (except Thanksgiving and Christmas), this is an excellent place to start your visit, get information and maps of the park and plan your stay. You will find the rangers extremely helpful and always willing to discuss anything regarding the park and surrounding area. Beach entrance and other fees are collected here. Check out the website listed here for details. It is also a starting point for various ranger led tours of the park.

Boat on Salt Marsh

My first visit to the salt marsh immediately behind the National Park Office was initiated with the screams of a golden eagle flying overhead, and there was plenty more to come. Many species of birds, fox, deer and seals at the beach. Plenty to photograph and enjoy.

Area attractions include two main swimming beaches (Coast Guard Beach and Nauset Beach) and the Nauset Lighthouse which we will cover in Part 2 next week. Other attractions of interest include:


Eastham Windmill is probably the oldest on the Cape (1680's). Each summer, a guest miller instructs tourists in the history and operation of the mill. Each fall, the residents of Eastham celebrate Windmill Weekend with a parade and activities on the Windmill Green.

The Schoolhouse Museum is located on Nauset Road across from the National Seashore Visitor Center. It is housed in a one-room schoolhouse built in 1869.

The Penniman House is a National Historic Site owned and interpreted by the National Park Service as part of Cape Cod National Seashore. Captain Penniman was a whaling captain who built his French Second Empire style house on Cape Cod in 1868. Today, over 100 years later, the house holds the Penniman family's written records and artifact collections, which provide glimpses of the places and people that the family visited on their whaling voyages.

On the trail
Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary

WELLFLEET, MA
Bounded on the east by the Atlantic Ocean and the west by Cape Cod Bay, it is home to beautiful beaches, freshwater ponds, bay and ocean fishing, a boating fleet and plentiful supply of shellfish, including the famous "Wellfleet Oysters". The area has a rich seafaring history that goes back to the mid 1600's. Over half of the town is located inside the Cape Cod National Seashore Park.

Mass Audubon/Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary offers five miles of trails that traverse salt marsh, sandy beach, pine woodland, freshwater pond, and rare heathland which attract a wide array of wildlife, especially songbirds and shorebirds. Nesting sites are easily viewed and the area makes for great photo ops!

The Wellfleet Historical Society Museum is open in season (late June 25 - just past Labor Day). The society's collection includes old photographs, maps, documents, marine artifacts, Indian artifacts, a small collection of period clothing, household, agricultural and commerce related items. Guided Walking Tours take place on Tuesdays and Fridays at 10:15am (in season). Self-Guided Audio Walking Tours are also available.

TRURO, MA
Located just south of Provincetown, Truro is also bounded on the east by the Atlantic Ocean and the west by Cape Cod Bay. Beaches are town managed (not NPS). The Highland Lighthouse (Cape Cod Light) is located in North Truro and worth a stop. The lighthouse is located next to the town run golf course.

The Pamet River is Truro's entrance to Cape Cod Bay. It's named for the Payomet Indians, and is primarily salt marsh. The river flows west nearly all the way across Cape Cod from its eastern beaches, and empties into Cape Cod Bay.
 

PROVINCETOWN, MA
Located at the northern tip of Cape Cod, the Pilgrims made first landfall here and signed the Mayflower Compact when they arrived at the harbor. They agreed to settle and build a self-governing community, and then came ashore in the West End.

The Pilgrim Monument, a 252-foot tall tower, is the tallest all granite structure in the United States and is part of the downtown historic district. It can be climbed daily. A series of ramps takes you to the top for an outstanding view of the area.

Sometimes called "P-town", the town is known for its beaches, harbor, artists, tourist industry, and its status as a gay village. This is an active fishing port town and visiting the harbor is an attraction in itself. Whale watching trips depart from the port and are highlighted in Part 2. This is the largest town on the Cape and very active throughout the day.

LUNCH! Lobster Roll w/ "local"
Cape Cod Potato Chips

FOOD
Chain restaurants will not be found frequently on Cape Cod! There are a few fast food restaurants, but the majority of eateries are locally owned and operated. Seafood is obviously featured at many. Kids menus are available at most and will usually satisfy even the finicky eater. There is a Wendy's in Orleans, MA south of Eastham. We'll be glad to assist you with your dining needs if you plan your trip through us!

Restaurants covered here are locals that we have tried. How did we find restaurants? Park Rangers know where to eat and we took their advice for many of the places we chose. We also looked for parking lots that were filled! Most restaurants have menus posted outside that help you decide if there is enough fare to keep everyone happy.

Capt'n Elmers Seafood, Orleans, MA (south of Eastham)
Located just off Orleans Center and adjacent to the Bike Trail, Capt'n Elmer's specializes in fresh Cape Cod seafood and lobsters. We had a "Shore Dinner" which was clam bake style with lobster, steamers & broth, drawn butter, corn, coleslaw & clam chowder. It was definitely a taste of New England and reasonably priced!


Lobster Shanty, Eastham, MA (across from the Salt Marsh National Park Office)
The Lobster Shanty features ... lobster! On the day we ate there our dinner special included whole lobsters, clams and sides. The establishment is a shanty. Clean and reasonable, and there was plenty of seating. The food was good, but if you're looking for gourmet dining - this is NOT the place!

The Beachcomber, Wellfleet, MA

AWESOME! Right on the beach! The Beachcomber has been a must-visit destination for surfers, families, beach-goers and music lovers for more than 50 years! Live music, cool cocktails, fantastic food (Cape Cod Clam Bake and BBQ Ribs were both excellent), stunning scenery and friendly atmosphere. Platters are reasonably priced and the "Minnows" Kids Menu has plenty of favorites for kids to choose from.

Lobster Pot, Provincetown, MA
"A Provincetown tradition" is stated on their website and in reviews. There was a line at the door for dining in and for take out. Entering the front door you view lobster tanks with various sized lobsters to choose from. We ate "Tim's Clam Chowder" after returning from a whale watch cruise. This award-winning (Cape Cod Chowder Fest, Boston Chowderfest) recipe is the creation of their Executive Chef, Tim McNulty. Thick and creamy, full of clams and well seasoned. One of the best I have ever had! We also shared a combo of Oyster Rockefeller, clam casino, mussels marinara and blackened shrimp. All prepared excellently!

In Part 2 (next week) we will explore beaches, attractions, whale watches and other venues. Cape Cod National Seashore is a great destination for singles, couples and families looking for a relaxing vacation. Contact us for ideas and to make your reservations! 888-895-5255

For information regarding the Cape Cod National Seashore go to the National Park Service site at http://www.nps.gov/caco/index.htm

Florida's Forgotten Coast - A Great Place to Visit!

A quiet section of Florida's panhandle coastline, stretching from Mexico Beach to Carrabelle, Florida including the areas of Cape San Blas, Apalachicola, St. George Island and Eastpoint is known as the "Forgotten Coast."  It got its name (a trademark of the Apalachicola Chamber of Commerce) when it was left off a Florida tourism brochure in the 1990's, and the "locals" still refer to it this way today.



Carrabelle, Fl (at Lighthouse)
Facing Rt. 98 and Bay

 There is no Interstate Highway in the area (I-10 runs well north of the area), and the coast is accessible via Rt. 98 / 30 which is frequently a two lane road traveling the coastline. There are great views of Apalachicola Bay and the barrier islands beyond while traveling this road. The area is also accessible via Rt. 71 from the North, taking you through forested and scenic back country roads.
The area is quiet, inviting and consists of beautiful state parks, pristine bays, sugar white beaches, coastal marshlands, estuaries rich with sea life, and barrier islands with impressive dune formations. A great place for couples and the family to visit! This is NOT the place for high energy day or night life.


Beaches & beachcombing, bird & animal watching, fishing, shopping, boating, photography and other relaxing activities abound here. There are plenty of sights to photograph. Animals (local favorites like pelicans and alligators!), seascapes, palm trees, docks, quaint villages, and as with all our trips, lighthouses are always a great stop! We visited St. Marks, Crooked River, Cape St. George and Cape San Blas Lighthouses!



Boss Oyster Restaurant
Dining on the dock!

When the daytime activities are through, you can relax at a local dockside restaurant and partake of the local catch. Local mariners are dependant upon shrimp, oysters and fish (grouper, snapper, kingfish, bass and even shark) for their livelihood. The fleet heads out in the early morning (bring your camera) and many can be seen trolling the coast for shrimp, or fishing off shore. The Apalachicola River and Bay meet in the eastern Gulf of Mexico to form one of the most unspoiled and productive estuaries in the country. This mixture of fresh and saltwater makes an ideal nursery for a diverse group of marine species that includes oysters, shrimp, crabs and a wide variety of fish. Apalachicola Bay produces 90 % of Florida’s oysters and 10% of the nationwide supply.



Coombs House Inn

 The locals are welcoming and enjoy the company of travelers (a good source of income to the area). Bed and breakfasts far outnumber chain hotels and provide a comfortable place to unwind. We chose the Coombs House Inn in Apalachicola. The rooms are well appointed and have a private bath. Breakfast (served from 8 to 10 am) varied by day and consisted of fresh muffins as well as a main course prepared by the owner. The Inn also offers picnic baskets prepared by staff for a beach lunch, bicycles, beach chairs, towels and umbrellas, afternoon tea and cookies (3 to 5pm), and a wine reception in the parlor (6 to 7 pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Holidays). For those who need to stay connected, wifi is present and a TV is in each room. Very cozy and pleasant!

To familiarize you, below is a review of the areas we visited (traveling west from St. Augustine):

St Marks Lighthouse

St. Marks Wildlife Refuge

St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge offers a variety of outdoor recreation activities. The Visitor Center presents a general overview of what there is to see and do. You should stop here first to get information and a map of the park. It is also one of the few places in the park that has restrooms. Trails for hiking, wildlife observation, fishing, crabbing, boating and photography are some of the activities. The main route through the park is County Road 59. It is approximately seven miles from the visitor center to the lighthouse. You will pass many fresh, brackish and saltwater pools where you are bound to observe wildlife. Many birds are wadding, "fishing" and nesting. You might even observe an alligator in one of the ponds or sunning on a bank.   



Anhinga



Oak Snake



Local Maritime Antique Shop
Apalachicola

Apalachicola

Situated on the Apalachicola River and Bay, Apalachicola or “Apalach“, as it is known by locals, is far from a typical tourist town. Established in 1831, it was once the third largest port on the Gulf of Mexico. It features over 900 listed historic homes and buildings.Travel to Apalachicola continues to increase as tourists seek experiences of "Old Florida," as many describe the feel of smaller coastal communities in the state. As someone who grew up spending summers in Florida (1960's and 70's) I definitely agree! With one blinking traffic light for traffic control on Main Street and a population of 2400, Apalach has a downtown that includes the Dixie Theater, shops and restaurants. - some that occupy restored sponge, oyster and fishing buildings along the waterfront. Locals and tourists alike spend time walking the downtown area to browse a shop, watch boats come and go, or enjoy a meal.



St. George Lighthouse

 St. George Island
St. George Island is a 22-mile barrier island with some of the most beautiful beaches on the Gulf Coast. It is one of the last inhabited, yet unspoiled, barrier islands of Florida, with miles of uncrowded beaches for sunning and shelling, clear Gulf waters for swimming and excellent fishing, pristine marshes for wildlife viewing and photography. Cape St. George Lighthouse stands prominently in town.




Cape San Blas Beach
(Adjacent to Lighthouse)

Cape San Blas
A scenic, 10-minute drive east of Port St. Joe will take you to the most hidden beaches of Cape San Blas. This is a 17 mile long barrier peninsula that curves around St. Joseph Bay. It has pristine white sand beaches on the Gulf side, with just a short walk across to spectacular fishing on the bay side. It was named America's #1 Beach for its natural beauty, in 2002. Annually it is consistently in the top 10! Shell collectors will enjoy this beach as many varieties wash ashore here.
The current (and fourth) Cape San Blas lighthouse was built in 1885. It is a skeletal tower with a lens house atop. The U.S. Air Force owns the property and ran a LORAN station here until 1972.  The museum and shop (in restored keeper's house) is open Wednesday - Friday: 11am - 5pm, Saturday: 10am - 4pm.
 
St Joseph Peninsula State Park (On Cape San Blas)

Conch at low tide

With miles of white sugar sand, this park has one of the top rated beaches in the United States. Sunbathing, snorkeling, and swimming are popular activities along the Gulf of Mexico and St. Joseph Bay. Canoeists and kayakers can take in an excellent view of the dunes and sand pine scrub. Outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy camping, fishing, hiking, photography and bicycling. As a coastal barrier peninsula, St. Joseph provides excellent opportunities for bird watching; over 240 species have been sighted in the park. At low tide, you can explore tidal pools teaming with life. Shrimp, conch, fiddler crabs, pipefish and other sea life can be observed.

Eastpoint
Just across the Bay from either Apalachicola or St. George Island, is the central point of the Forgotten Coast. Seafood docks stretch almost the entire length of the community and you can dine on the bay while watching the shrimp and oyster boats bring in the day’s catch. Great place for pictures also. We ate at Captain Snook's in Eastpoint. Great seafood combination meals, soups and try the "fish dip" for an appetizer. You will enjoy a view of the bay (and fresh oysters) while dining here.

So what's a vacation on the Forgotten Coast have to offer? Away from crowds, a relaxing vacation where you can re-energize, slow down and enjoy the local laid-back style ... this is what the "Quiet Coast"  (renamed!) has to offer!

Whether looking for a bed & breakfast, hotel or other accommodations, we will help you find the perfect location for your stay.